Tree removal in Forest Hill isn’t a decision most people make lightly. Trees are expensive to remove, and once they’re gone, they’re gone. But sometimes removal is the only option that makes sense—and waiting too long can cost you a lot more than the removal price.

The people who call usually fall into two camps. Either they’ve been watching a dodgy tree for years and finally admitted it needs to go, or something happened (storm, disease, construction) that forced their hand.

Let me save you some time. Here are the legitimate reasons trees need to be removed:

Dead or dying trees don’t get better. They get weaker, more unstable, and eventually fail. If arborist services have assessed it and confirmed significant decay or disease, removal isn’t optional—it’s risk management.

Structural failure risk includes major cracks, split trunks, significant lean (especially recent lean), or root damage that compromises stability. These aren’t cosmetic issues—they’re timebombs.

Storm damage that’s too severe to prune back. Sometimes a tree loses so much structure in a storm that what’s left can’t survive or is permanently unstable.

Foundation damage from aggressive root systems. Some species (looking at you, liquid amber and some eucalypts) have roots that infiltrate foundations, cause cracking, and create drainage problems.

Constant roof and gutter damage from overhanging branches. Yes, you can prune. But if the tree keeps growing back and causing problems every 18 months, at some point, removal is more cost-effective than constant tree trimming.

Blocked pipes and drains from root infiltration. Modern CCTV inspections often reveal that trees are the culprit behind recurring drainage issues.

Too big for the space and will only get bigger. That cute little tree planted 30 years ago is now a 20-metre monster crowding power lines, neighbouring properties, and blocking all sunlight.

Wrong species for Melbourne climate or local conditions. Some trees just don’t thrive here and become liability problems as they struggle.

Development requirements—you’re building, extending, or installing a pool, and the tree’s location makes it impossible to keep safely.

Professional tree removal isn’t just cutting it down and hoping for the best. Here’s what actually happens:

Step 1: Assessment and Planning

Inspect the tree, evaluate access, identify hazards (power lines, structures, underground services), and plan the removal method. Every tree is different.

Step 2: Site Preparation

Establish exclusion zones, protect nearby structures and gardens, inform neighbours if necessary, and arrange traffic management if working near streets.

Step 3: The Actual Removal

The method depends on the situation:

Sectional dismantling (most common in suburban Forest Hill)

• Climb the tree or use an elevated work platform
• Remove the tree in sections from top down
• Use ropes and rigging to control where pieces fall
• Lower sections carefully to avoid damage
• Work methodically until only the stump remains

Straight felling (only if there’s space)

• Make precise directional cuts
• Control the fall direction
• Only possible in open areas away from structures
• Faster but requires significant clear space

Crane-assisted removal

• For trees near houses with limited access
• For trees too dangerous to climb
• For complex removals where precision matters
• More expensive, but sometimes the only safe option

Step 4: Cleanup and Debris Removal

• Cut timber into manageable lengths
• Chip branches into mulch (you can keep it)
• Remove all debris from the property
• Rake and tidy the area
• Optional stump grinding (usually a separate quote)

Step 5: Stump Options

The stump is left unless you specifically arrange stump removal. Professionals can:

• Grind it below ground level
• Remove it completely (more expensive)
• Leave it and let it rot naturally (cheap but slow)
• Treat it with stump killer (moderate option)

I’m going to be blunt: tree removal is the most dangerous maintenance task homeowners attempt. More people die from DIY tree work than from almost any other home project.

Why it’s genuinely dangerous:

• Falls from ladders and trees (the most common serious injury)
• Chainsaw kickback and cutting injuries
• Trees or branches falling unpredictably
• Power line contact (this kills people regularly)
• Property damage when removal goes wrong

The insurance problem: Your home insurance likely doesn’t cover DIY tree removal damage. If you stuff it up and damage your house, your neighbour’s house, or hurt someone, that’s on you personally.

When DIY might be acceptable:

• Very small trees under 2-3 metres
• In open areas away from structures
• No power lines anywhere near
• You have proper safety equipment and chainsaw training
• You understand tree physics and felling techniques

When to call professionals:

• Literally any other situation
• Anything requiring a ladder
• Anything near power lines
• Anything near structures
• Any tree over 3 metres tall

Your life is worth more than saving a few hundred dollars. Seriously.

Branches and foliage get chipped into mulch. You can keep as much as you want for your garden beds. The rest goes to green waste facilities where it’s composted commercially.

Trunk timber depends on the species and size:

• Firewood-quality timber can be cut into rounds and left for you if you want
• Millable timber (some species) might have value
• Most timber goes to waste facilities for processing into mulch or biomass fuel

Stumps are ground up or extracted if you’ve paid for stump removal. The grindings can stay as mulch or be removed with other waste.

Experts don’t just dump it illegally. Everything goes to licensed facilities. Green waste costs money to dispose of properly, which is partly why tree removal isn’t cheap.

Before you commit to complete removal, consider whether these options solve your problem:

Heavy reduction pruning – Making the tree significantly smaller while keeping it alive. Works if size is the issue, but the tree itself is healthy and you’re not opposed to keeping it.

Directional pruning – Removing specific sections to create clearance from structures while maintaining the tree’s overall form.

Root barrier installation – For trees causing foundation or pipe issues, root barriers can sometimes solve the problem without removing the tree.

Nothing – Sometimes the tree is fine, and the problem is perception. Experts tell you if removal isn’t actually necessary, even if you’re convinced it is.

A good arborist doesn’t push removal if there’s a better option. But they also don’t pretend pruning will solve problems that genuinely require removal. You’re getting an honest assessment based on what’s actually going on.

Once the tree’s gone, you’re left with a gap. Here’s what actually makes sense for replanting:

Consider before replanting:

• What went wrong with the previous tree?
• Is this location suitable for trees at all?
• What are your actual needs (shade, screening, aesthetics)?
• What are the council requirements for replacement?

Better species choices for Forest Hill:

• Native trees suited to your soil and space
• Species with less aggressive root systems if near structures
• Smaller-growing varieties if space is limited
• Drought-tolerant options for low-maintenance care

The council may require replacement planting if you’ve removed a significant tree with permit approval. They’ll specify how many trees, minimum sizes, and sometimes even species.

There’s a big difference in cost and approach:

Planned removal:

• You schedule at your convenience
• We work during business hours
• Standard rates apply
• Time for permits if needed
• Can coordinate with other work

Emergency removal:

• The tree has fallen or is immediately dangerous
• We respond 24/7, including weekends
• Premium rates for after-hours work
• Sometimes can’t wait for permits (genuine emergency exemption)
• Safety takes priority over cost

If your tree is sketchy but still standing, plan the removal properly. Waiting until it falls in a storm means you’re paying emergency tree removal rates plus potentially dealing with property damage.

Trees and insurance intersect in complicated ways:

If a tree damages your property:

• Your insurance usually covers damage to your structures
• Tree removal might be covered if it’s damaged property
• Just removing a standing dangerous tree usually isn’t covered
• Get proper documentation from us for claims

If your tree damages a neighbour’s property:

• You’re potentially liable if the tree was obviously dangerous and you did nothing
• Your public liability might cover it (if you have it)
• This is why regular assessments and documented maintenance matter

If you’re removing a tree:

• Make sure your contractor has proper insurance ($10M public liability minimum)
• Check that they have workers’ comp for their staff
• Verify current insurance certificates before work starts
• Understand that your home insurance doesn’t cover contractor mistakes